Coastal Maine & Acadia National Park
Colt and I visited Maine in July 2020 to celebrate our second anniversary. For our first anniversary, we went to Costa Rica. While there, I read this Bon Appetit article and decided then to put Maine on the top of our to-do list. Colt was interested in Acadia, and I wanted more lobster in my life. So, a Maine trip would be a win-win.
2020 brought all things Covid related. Originally we wanted to split time between Maine and Massachusetts by hitting up Acadia then Portland before traveling to Cape Cod for a few days. However, traveling among the northeastern states during the first summer of Covid wasn’t going to be easy because of travel restrictions, so we instead shifted to a week in coastal Maine.
I’m glad it worked that way because Maine had so much to offer! (I am currently thinking we will do Cape Cod/Martha’s Vineyard/Nantucket July 2021. TBD.) Maine did require a negative Covid test within three days prior to arrival. Check here to see requirements.
Our trip is outlined below along with my thoughts and suggestions. This is the only time in which we have visited a National Park AND eaten well all along the way. Usually it’s the beauty of a national park met with a mediocre burger. So, Maine gets all five stars from me.
Day 1 - Morning flight to Portland, ME → Kennebunkport, ME
Day 2 - Kennebunk/Kennebunkport
Day 3 & 4 - Rockland/Camden
Day 5 & 6 - Bar Harbor/Acadia
Day 7 & 8 - Portland
Day 9 - Early morning flight home
Days 1 & 2
Morning Southwest flight from Nashville to Portland, ME. We picked up our rental car and drove the quick 35 minutes to Kennebunkport. Kennebunk and Kennebunkport are pretty much attached to one another so it’s hard to differentiate between the two. Honestly, don’t even worry about it.
Kennebunkport
We rearranged our trip last minute (#covid), so we didn’t have prime pick with lodging. We stayed at The Grand Hotel, and we ended up in this suite (hello, upgrade!) because our basic room had not been cleaned from the previous guest. The hotel experience during all of Covid is much different than usual. No one was on-site, and the room was not cleaned while we were there. Instead, a boxed breakfast and clean towels were in a bag outside our door each morning. It is what it is, and we rolled with it. We loved the Kennebunks and saw a lot of what it has to offer in our 48-hour stay.
Stay:
Hidden Pond - would love to stay here, eat here, and spa here. Check out The From Away Lodge there, it’s actually a design collaboration between LL Bean and famed clothing designer Todd Snyder!
Tides - This is slightly out of town. This is good for those going during really warm times or those wanting more of a beach experience.
Grand Hotel - convenient location
Sandy Pines - an option for those that want to “glamp”
To do:
Bike. Most of the hotels have bikes or can rent one. Bike around town & down Ocean Avenue.
See the Bush family compound at Walker's Point. (Or do this on your bike route.)
Beach. Go to Goose Rocks Beach (such a cute area), Gooch’s Beach (most common & spacious), Middle Beach, and Mother’s Beach (family oriented) or any of the other public beaches. Will need a parking permit at some, if not all of them, during the summer months. Many hotels provide these at the front desk. Inquire there.
Beware. To me, the water is FREEZING. I don’t know how people are frolicking in it at their own will. Even at the end of July, I didn’t go past my calves. That “It feels cold at first, but you get used to it” is a lie.
Walk the cute streets of Kennebunkport/Dock Square.
Drive out to Biddeford Pool and walk trails there. We flew our drone there and loved the scenery. This trail offered great views.
Kayak the Kennebunk River.
Eat a lobster roll.
Take it in stride and enjoy the laid-back vibe.
Biddeford Pool
Breakfast:
Mornings in Paris - we had a latte from here each morning while in Kennebunkport. Lots of latte options to choose from!
HB Provisions - general store that serves breakfast/simple lunch. Just check it out and see if there is anything you need. You can pick up snacks/drinks there too. It’s cute and was across the street from our hotel.
Boulangerie - bakery
lunch at Mabel’s
LUNCH: Lobster rolls. Our favorite was Mabel’s. But you could also try The Clam Shack, Port Lobster, & Alisson’s just to name a few. I honestly don’t think you can go wrong! Turns out I like hot & buttered while Colt enjoyed more of the cold & mayo style. However, we always got one of each and shared, so you do you. This is the only advice I have for lunch. Next.
Ramp Bar
Dinner:
Ramp Bar & Grill/Pier 77 - We ate outside during sunset at low-key Ramp versus higher-scale Pier 77. Loved it!
Hurricane Restaurant - we had dinner outside & really enjoyed it.
Earth at Hidden Pond
Ice Cream:
Drinks:
Old Vines Wine Bar - We went here after dinner on our last night & loved our cocktails.
Batson River - We stopped by the patio here the afternoon we got into town. Locals had their dogs on the patio, so I was going to love my cocktail regardless because I love dogs. Colt says it’s the best white Negroni he’s had.
Days 3 & 4
When I started planning the Maine trip, I had great lobster and coastal views in mind with a heaping side of Acadia National Park. I did some research, and we altered the plans to make it somewhat of a coastal town adventure from Portland to Acadia. Thus, we flew into Portland and started with the Kennebunks. The next stop needed to be somewhere between there and Acadia. We had already decided to finish the trip in Portland to be close to the airport for our early flight home on Sunday. I read some articles/blogs/library travel books and settled on Rockland, ME with the plan to see neighboring Camden. I allocated a two night stay for each stop we made, but in hindsight this could have been a one night stay. If doing it over, I would stay one night in Rockland or Camden and then spend three nights in Acadia.
We left Kennebunkport for Rockland after breakfast, but don’t think that we didn’t stop in Freeport along the way to check out a couple outlet stores. L.L. Bean’s flagship store (with the big boot) is there along with a great Patagonia outlet. If you forgot any hiking equipment/apparel for Acadia, you could probably find it somewhere in this town.
Colt and I aren’t really shoppers while on trips, but we went to Australia (!!!) in February (mere weeks before Covid was a thing) to visit our friends, Kyle & Britney. (See her blog for Australia ideas.) Anyhow, while we were in Melbourne, we stumbled upon a Patagonia outlet and scored big with heavily discounted winter gear during their summer. So, when we realized a Patagonia outlet was nearby here in Maine, we had to stop. We didn’t check out any of the other outlet stores, but there are lots to choose from there.
*Do look up the outlet hours of operation ahead. They weren’t regular hours or maybe those were just because of Covid?
After Freeport, we drove into Rockland and stayed at 250 Main. I loved our stay at this hotel - our anniversary fell during our stay, so I was going to love it regardless. We arrived in time to have a complimentary wine hour on the rooftop patio. They also left us a bottle of wine in our room for our anniversary, so hospitality and thoughtfulness isn’t lost on the staff.
We next walked the streets of Rockland. Y'all, the area was a ghost town. Covid had pretty much shut down each place. It’s so cute, yet so sad. What looked like a once vibrant area was so sparse. I hope it’s much livelier when you visit.
We did love walking along the pier/boardwalk and having dinner at Archer’s. We each got a boiled lobster & loved it! We went to lighthouses the next day (happy anniversary to us) and explored beautiful Camden. See below for all recommendations.
Rooftop area at 250 Main
Stay:
I’m sure many more options exist. I did not spend much time researching lodging here as I knew we were staying in Rockland at 250 Main. Had we stayed in Camden, we would have stayed at the Harbour Inn.
Rockland Breakwater
To do:
Rockland Breakwater - this is a really cool lighthouse experience. The breakwater is a ⅞ mile one way walk to the lighthouse along granite blocks. Make sure to wear comfortable shoes that are flat and use the bathroom prior. We flew our drone here for some really cool photos.
Walk the boardwalk by Archer’s - we were there at sunset.
Owls Head Lighthouse - take in all the lighthouses. Maine is the place for such.
Camden Hills State Park/Mount Battie in Camden (can hike/walk up or drive) - Great views of Camden. We drove as we were short on time.
Walk Main Street (why it isn’t “Maine Street” baffles me) in Rockland in hopes that all of those cute little shops/cafes/art museum are reopened post covid.
Farnsworth Art Museum in Rockland - closed when we were there
The Strand on Main Street in Rockland for live shows/concerts
Happy hour in Camden and stroll their streets - we did this along the waterside and made dinner out of that happy hour. I’m pretty sure we sat outside here (The Waterfront) for happy hour/apps. Colt got nearby Camden Cone ice cream after, and we walked around those streets along the water before going back to Rockland for the night.
Lobster Festival - wouldn’t this be fun if it fell during your trip?
Sailing
Picnic in Camden Harbor Park
Stone walkway to Rockland Breakwater
Owls Head Lighthouse
Breakfast:
Our lunch at Claw’s
Lunch:
Claw’s - Colt had a lobster roll & I went for Lobster Tacos. Yum.
Main Street Markets - good for to-go food if you decide to picnic
Dinner:
Lobster at Archer’s
Primo - would’ve loved to go there/closed Mondays & Tuesdays. Definitely on the list for next time.
Fog Bar & Cafe
Suzuki’s - sushi
Natalie’s (in Camden) - probably the fanciest place listed
Days 5 & 6
Today we left Rockland for Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park. These were my favorite two days of the trip. We loved hiking at Acadia, and the town of Bar Harbor was quaint & inviting and has great food options. It, too, is a cute town to stroll.
Stay:
Find a bed & breakfast that fits your style.
Atlantean - we stayed at this B&B, and the breakfast was delicious.
Could also do an AirBnB
Eat:
We ate an amazing breakfast each day at our bed & breakfast, had protein bars/snacks while hiking for lunch, and then went out for dinner then cocktails.
Breakfast:
Lunch:
At Thurston’s, you choose your lobster.
Thurston’s. It partially hurt my heart that I had just seen this guy alive.
Dinner:
Thurston’s - it’s a little bit of a drive from Bar Harbor, but we loved it. Casual but you get to choose your live lobster for dinner. Also, don’t forget to go by Bass Harbor Head Light while on that side of Mount Desert Island.
Project Social for cocktails - we sat outside in the crisp night air & loved it. Loved it so much that we got cocktails (Rising Sol) there both nights.
Crisp July evening at Project Social
To do that isn’t Acadia:
Bass Harbor Head Light - we had dinner at Thurston’s and went to this lighthouse on our way. You can stay on the paved section and walk up to one side of the lighthouse. Also able to take Bass Harbor Lighthouse Trail (easy) to get views from closer to sea level.
Echo Lake - could stop here on way to Bass Harbor Head Light
Whale watching tour
Sea Kayak tour
Walk around town of Bar Harbor
To do that is Acadia:
*You will need to buy a park pass ($30 for 7 days) or use an annual pass ($80/year for entrance into all National Parks).
*Vehicle reservations are required for certain areas of the park as of October 2020. Make them before you go. These will be mandatory if you plan to do sunrise at Cadillac Mountain.
* Many trails can be closed during summer months due to peregrine falcon nesting.
Beehive Trail Iron Rungs
Beehive Trail - 1.4 miles and 1.5 hours
We parked in the lot at Sand Beach. Restrooms are available here. Take water as it is a strenuous hike, and make sure you have a backpack so that you can be hands free for the iron rungs. Cross Park Loop Road to see Beehive Trailhead to start the hike. This hike makes a loop. You’ll climb up rock staircases, have a few narrow cliff side walks (eeek!), and use a lot of iron rungs (so fun) to make your way to the top. You’ll have great views of Sand Beach along the way. After you get to the top, the descent is much easier & is through the woods. You have the option to add The Bowl on the way down. It adds less than a quarter mile, and The Bowl is the name of a nearby lake. We did it.
LOVED THIS. But we also loved it because it was our first hike in Acadia.
It did test my fear of unrestrained heights at times though. If you have small children, a serious fear of heights, or rain in the forecast, do not do Beehive Trail or Precipice Trail.
Once we finished, we walked back to our car & changed shoes to go over to Sand Beach.
Beehive Trail Unrestrained Ledges
The Bowl
Sand Beach from Beehive Trail
Sand Beach
Pretty beach with very cold water. Nice stop after Beehive Trail. Very popular stop, so do expect some crowds. It’s Acadia’s only sandy ocean beach.
From the upper parking lot at Sand Beach, you can take the flat Ocean Path 2.2 miles one-way to Otter Point.
Main attraction along the way is Thunder Hole (about 1 mile from Sand Beach).
Thunder Hole is an Acadia landmark making a loud “thunder” sound made from waves crashing. Best time to go is 2 hours before high tide.
You could turn around and go back after Thunder Hole or continue on to Otter Point before turning around.
Acadia’s most thrilling hike.
Has iron rungs & cliff walks. Comparable to Beehive but a more challenging trail.
Closed for parts of spring/summer for peregrine falcon nesting, so we did not get to hike this for that reason.
One of the first places in the US to view the sunrise, and it makes for a popular activity.
Drive to the top and wear layers as it is chilly.
As of October 2020, a pre purchased vehicle registration is required.
We did this on our last day. Saw sunrise, went back and napped, and then had later breakfast at our B&B before checking out.
Cadillac Mountain Sunrise
Jordan Pond & Jordan Pond House
Jordan Pond Path is a flat easy 3-mile loop around Jordan Pond.
Jordan Pond House is a restaurant on the shore of Jordan Pond that serves famous popovers. Colt and I went here and got the popovers. This is an unpopular opinion, but I thought they were overrated even with the jam. Unimpressed. But, you can decide for yourself. The view, though, while eating the popovers out on the lawn of Jordan Pond was beautiful.
“Popovers are meh.” -Ashley
Iron rungs but not as scary as Precipice.
Closed for parts of summer due to peregrine falcon nesting, so we didn’t get to do this one.
From Jordan Pond House take Spring Trail to Jordan Cliffs Trail and return via Jordan Pond Path.
Bubble Rock & South Bubble Trail
I loved this hike as much, if not more than, Beehive.
We parked in a lot on Park Loop Road for Bubbles Trail after leaving Jordan Pond House.
Take Bubbles Divide Trail hike up to Bubble Rock. How bubble rock is just hanging out there is beyond me!
Take South Bubble Trail down. It’s fun and get ready to scramble over large rocks.
Bubble Rock
Just the beginning of South Bubble Trail
Beech Cliff Ladder Trail
This is on my to-do list for next time. We ran out of time for this one. Thrilling, not too scary, and it includes some of those ladder rungs.
2.2 miles. Park at Echo Lake Beach Entrance. Take Beech Cliff Trail to the summit for great views. Take Canada Cliff trail Trail back to the parking lot.
Would be great to do Echo Lake, Beech Cliff Ladder Trail, Bass Harbor Head Light and then Thurston’s for dinner.
Bike Carriage Roads
Nearly 50 miles of nicely graveled roads criss-cross the park.
Here is a map.
Drive Park Loop Road - 27 mile scenic drive
Days 7 & 8
After leaving Acadia and all of its wonder, we headed for the last leg of our trip, Portland. From Acadia, Portland is about a 3 hour drive. Taylor Swift had just released Folklore & that album will forever remind me of the Maine coast. How I wish we had visited Portland for the first time outside of Covid because it seems like such a cool city. All of the restaurants were outdoor space only while we were there, so it wasn’t the complete experience.
To do:
See Lighthouses. Portland Head Light is the most popular and is one of the most photographed lighthouses in the US. Other options are Bug Light and Spring Point Ledge Light.
Walk around the cobblestone streets of Old Port and downtown
Lobstering Cruise (such as Lucky Catch Cruises)
Portland Head Light
Stay:
The Francis - We stayed here, and I do like it. I did not like staying below the main level.
The Press Hotel - would stay here next time
Eat: Again, not the true experience because of Covid.
Breakfast:
Tandem Bakery - the best! Best perk of staying at The Francis is that Tandem is across the street.
Lunch:
Dinner:
Scales
Cocktails:
Portland is so pretty!
Portland rounded up our anniversary week trip to coastal Maine. Can’t wait to come back! Hopefully next time we won’t have to wear masks!
